CRETE: Beyond Chania — A Day Trip to Balos and Gramvousa

We have 20 years or so of staying in the old town of Chania (or Hania) and never tiring of its beauty. This lovely town on the north coast of Crete has a long and fascinating history from ancient times and invaders that have all left their mark, but especially the Venetians: in the harbor, shipyards and faros (the lighthouse), the landmark of the city. From Chania, we’ve hiked through the Samaria Gorge, traveled the south coast from Frangokastello to Loutro to Sougia to Paleohora, visited Elafonisi and Kedrodasos on the southwest coast, Falasarna, and the caves of Matala, once inhabited by hippies and flower children.

But there’s one trip that was waiting for us this year. If you look in the window of any tourist agency, your eye falls on pictures of the turquoise waters of the Balos lagoon. An organized bus and cruise goes there on the northwest tip of Crete, and to the island of Gramvousa. There’s a road but it’ll likely destroy your tires. If you’re determined to go by land, you can also find organized jeep trips.

For hikers, there’s also a coastal trail from Falasarna, on the west coast, to Balos, of several hours. Definitely DO NOT do this in the summer. Never underestimate the heat and how easily it can lead to dehydration.

The boats are run by the Cretan Daily Cruises, whose advertising features a beautiful young man and woman soaking up the sun. How idyllic! And unrealistic of course- would you ever sit directly on burning sand and stare into the sun sans sunglasses or hat…

Even more wrong is that you seem to have this paradise to yourself! No way my friends. You share it with hundreds of others … It seems to be the most popular trip from Chania and since it’s August, there are thousands of tourists, many of whom are staying in hotels that promote this trip as well.

It’s not to say though that the trip is not worth doing. But if you only knew someone with a sailboat… Or if you have a boating license, you can rent a boat. Otherwise, join the cruise.

If you’re staying in Chania, the first part of the trip is the bus that goes to Kissamos, about 40 km west of Chania. We’re waiting in front of the Agora, where the bus starts, with our coffee from Funky’s (best street food in Chania) along with supplies of pitas, sandwiches and water. The Agora is the site of the 1911 municipal closed market, which has been under renovation for the last three or four years. Ready next summer maybe…

The bus starts making pick up stops at hotels. The sea is shimmering like glass in the early morning and joggers fill the park around Agios Apostolis. A few fishermen are out and people sitting on benches to enjoy the view.

West of Chania to Platanias are ever spreading rooms and small hotels, with various pick up points. It has that look of sprawl like outside Rhodes. Hotels with names like Bella Mare, Creta Palm, Santa Helena, Kri Kri (the Cretan goat) Gorgona Beach, Minoa Palace Resort, Casa di Mare, Odysseus Seafront Apartments, Greco Mare, Porto Platanias…

Once everyone is on the bus, our guide Stella greets us in ten languages and makes us repeat over and over the name of the boat we’re going to take (Gramvousa) and the time it sails. “The BIG BOAT,” she emphasizes, “not the small one. You’ll repeat the name so much that you’ll wake up from a nightmare and say it in your sleep,” she tells us, “you’ll be so afraid to miss it.”

“I love you too much” she says when we repeat the name to her satisfaction.

At the port in Kissamos there it is waiting.

As we leave Kissamos, the landscape gets drier and drier.

On the way you pass caves built into the rock (according to our guide, Crete has around 5000 caves)

This large one is believed to be the site of ancient shipyards.

The western side of the island is rising while the eastern side is sinking, a result of powerful earthquakes in 66 and 365 BC. This shift continues to shape the landscape.

At times we’re sailing right next to the rocks.There’s an art to try and take photos from the boat without annoying others, but it’s not easy!

Here and there a yacht or catamaran is sailing in the deep sapphire waters.

As we get closer to the Balos lagoon, the water changes color to sunlit shades of turqoise.

There’s only a narrow bridge from the boat to the shore to accommodate hundreds. Siga siga. Slowly slowly.

Balos is a protected area under NATURA 2000, which is a European Union network of protected sites. Greece has 446 sites while Crete itself has over 50, which is about 30 % of its coastal area.

Balos is included for its fragile sand dunes, its rich biodiversity, native plants some of which are endemic to the area, and its nesting or migration paths for birds and mammals.

Nothing organized is allowed of course, no sunbeds (thank goodness) or camping. Strictly forbidden is lighting fires, leaving trash, taking shells and sand. In Elafonisi, on the southwest coast, also NATURA 2000 protected, people were actually taking bottles and jars of the white pink sand home with them.

A large sign calls on you to respect this ecosystem.

You might be surprised there are no trash bins on the beach. Volunteers, including our guide, check the beaches for trash.

Of course, even if everyone takes care, can this fragile area survive the daily onslaughts of visitors? For this reason, the municipality of Kissamos is planning to implement a timed entry system next summer, where you need to book a date and time slot online. This would probably also be for Elafonisi and Falasarna beach.

Tip: as you walk away from the boat, the best place to swim is far down on the left.. This is the side that leads to the open sea, so you can find deeper waters. Swim out to where the little boats are (many are from a rental company called Sea-holic, with its slogan, ‘Don’t worry beach happy.’) The translucent turquoise water is a sheer joy to swim in.

Be sure you have an umbrella with you. You can also rent one, so they say, from the bar on the boat, but they don’t have an unlimited number …

The least bit of wind affects the area — cruises don’t run if there’s even a moderate amount of wind.

All too soon, it’s time to join the others trekking back to the boat.

Next stop is Gramvousa, about 15 minutes away from Balos..

Also known as the pirate’s island, Gramvousa has a 16th century castle/fort that was built by the Venetians to defend themselves from the Ottomans.

Ready to walk up to the fort? One of the items the travel agencies tell you to take is shoes for hiking to the castle. A 20 minute walk we’re told, which seems manageable, except that it’s now the middle of the day with the sun beating down fiercely.

Besides the castle, there are also remains of buildings left by Cretan insurgents who used Gramvousa as their base and lived as pirates during the 1821 Greek War for Independence.

At one point, it was such a hive of pirate activity that a school and church was built, called “Panagia (Virgin Mary) Kleftrina,” dedicated to the wives of the insurgents or klefts, as they were called.

From the photo it looks like if you get up to the top, you’ve reached the fort, but no, there’s another hill you can’t see. We trudge to the top of the first hill, look up to the second and decide there’s no reason to torture ourselves any more. The glimmering sea below is beckoning to us.

Happily we start the descent, gazing at the sunlit waters below in their hues of blue and green.

I think of the end of the Samaria Gorge hike when, sweaty and sunburned, you reach Agia Roumeli, peel off your clothes to your bathing suit underneath, and you throw yourself into the crystalline Libyan Sea. But here with  slippery rocky ledges, you can’t have the same effect.

The water caresses our tired bodies and so captivates us that by the time we get back on the boat, it’s hard to find a seat on the packed boat. Blaring from the speakers is “Oh macarena!” It doesn’t exactly fit but the rest of the way they’re playing annoying techno.

In terms of weather the day was blissful, not too hot, with just a light wind.

Conclusion: Yes it’s a little bit of a sardine-in-a- tin feeling, but the trip is worth it!

Details: cost per person:: bus is 30 euros, boat is 26, including tax. The jeep is about 50 euros, but you have to add the public bus trip from Chania to Kissamos.

On our bus back to Chania, we learned that the agave plant, brought to Crete and Europe generally about 300 years ago) grows and thrives in Crete’s hot dry summers and rocky terrain. Outside of Mexico it’s not allowed for the plant to be used for making tequila. No loss, our guide Stella sighed, for as she told us, there are 17 grape varieties in Crete that go into making the ever present raki (tsigoudia as it’s known informally).

If you’ve ever visited Crete, you know that it’s given at the end of meals as the kerasma (treat) in these exquisite little bottles and glasses along with a sweet or fruit. Be careful, it’s potent.

Back in Chania, there’s the usual line up to see the sunset. This guitarist found a great spot.

Walking along the ramparts at dusk to the faros

Every Tuesday evening there’s the “strata.” From Italian strada, this is the “walk” or “stroll” along the port with musicians playing the traditional lauto and lyra. The musicians/dancers make a stop in back of the Yiali Tzami, the 17th century Mosque, for dancing and of course giving out tiny glasses of raki to the visitors. The walk ends up at the Metropolitan church square, where a group of musicians is waiting. Hours of dancing follow with audience participation very welcome!

In back of the neoria, the remains of the Venetian shipyards, stands an unusual church, St. Nicholas, originally built in the 14th century, in the main square in Splantzia, the traditional Turkish area. On one side of the church you can make out a minaret, on the other, a bell tower.

The cats sprawled around the old town might be adorable but Greek stray cats are an issue throughout the country. I noticed for the first time a sign for an organization called “Let’s Be S.M.A.R.T Greece” which deals with animal awareness and adopting a “Greek kitty” and dogs as well.

For amazing food, the Well of the Turk can’t be beat, as well as Pulse for vegans. For fun, I recommend Adespoto with its bouzouki and guitar and intimate atmosphere.

Changes are inevitable. A Hilton has gone up along the walk to Nea Chora. We’re staying again in Casa di Pietra on Theotocopoulou Street, which I think is the best street in the old town, where owners Sifis and Spiridoula put little surprises in our fridge every day from what they grow: grapes, olives, figs, apricots and homemade banana orange cake.

So, bye bye Chania for one more year!

You can check out my previous blogs on Chania: with an elephant eye, a visit to the caves of the flower children of Matala, exploring Loutro and the Samaria Gorge, going to Falasarna, Polyrinia and the 4,000 year old olive tree and museum at Vouves, a visit to Elafonissi and Kedrodasos and a look at history, culture and Cretan cuisine and a tribute to composer Mikis Theodorakis.

Thank you for reading — comments are welcome in the section below. And enjoy what’s left of the summer!

If you like what you read, hit the like button and subscribe. Please share with your friends and I’d love to hear your comments below.

There’s no need to log in to leave a comment. Just give an email address and your name.

Get new blogs delivered directly to your inbox! It costs nothing to subscribe. Olivesandislands does not share email information.

Sherri Moshman Paganos is a writer and former educator, inspired by her life in Athens, where she and her husband are happily retired and enjoying their travels in Greece and abroad. You can check out her writing — fiction, non-fiction, poetry and articles here.